“Invisible Neighbors” is the work of Studio Tutto, local artists Sofia Laçin and Hennessy Christophel, who transformed three blank walls into a semi-abstract homage to the Park’s plants and wildlife. FoGP sponsored the project that underwent nearly two years of approvals before the team began their work in spring, 2024.

Large crowds turned out to view the mural of flowing and twining plant life, discovering the hidden treasures including skunks, deer, praying mantises, and more. Smack dab in the middle panel, with white piercing eyes, is a depiction of the ghost cat himself, mountain lion P-22 who resided in this Park mainly undetected for more than 10 years. Adults and kids were delighted and mesmerized by the intricacies of the imagery.

In addition, a small native plant garden welcomed guests; a large plant spire was uncovered and the seeds inside will soon germinate. FoGP brought in native plant specialist Katherine Pakradouni to select and place plants that will augment yet not obscure the mural. This pollinator garden features a selection of sticky monkey flower, sage and blue-eyed grasses.

The plants have already been welcomed

While Laçin and Christophel were putting the finishing touches on the mural, a hummingbird approached their painted red fuchsia flower. Realizing it wasn’t the real thing, it buzzed off. ­­But once the garden was installed, the artists noticed a hummingbird sipping from the blooming fuchsia.

“I don’t know if it was the same one,” Laçin told the crowds at the celebration. “But I like to think it was the same one returning and drinking from the real thing.”

On the following day, PBS’s Jennifer Jewell, Cultivating Place podcast, interviewed the artists for a broadcast that will air later.

~Brenda Rees, FoGP Board Member

Whether you stroll in the grass or hike along a trail, you might notice the colorful and curious mushrooms that dot Griffith Park. These fascinating fungi come in countless shapes, sizes, and colors, each with its own story to tell. But what are these organisms, and how can we safely interact with them? I’ll guide you through the visible world of mushrooms and delve into the transformative processes happening beneath our feet.

What’s Out There?

Mushrooms, or fungi, are actually just the fruiting bodies of a much larger organism that lives underground. The mushrooms we see are much like seeing an apple on a tree. Fungi are fruiting bodies created with the goal of reproduction. The “tree” is a vast network of thread-like-tissue called mycelium that absorbs nutrients/water, but sometimes intertwines with tree roots for a symbiotic relationship.

You might encounter a variety of mushrooms on your hikes through the Park, including:

Edible Mushrooms: Such as puffballs or morels, which are sought after by chefs and foragers. (center image, above)

Poisonous Mushrooms: Like the infamous “death caps” and “destroying angels”, common under oak trees. Some mushrooms can cause serious harm, so it’s crucial to avoid consuming any mushroom unless you are absolutely sure of its identity. (right image)

Inedible but Interesting Species: These make up a majority of the mushies around us. They can be fascinating to observe, such as the bioluminescent Jack-o-lantern mushrooms, Omphalotus olivascens, which glow in the dark. (left image)

Where do I find them?

Mushrooms can be everywhere, but timing is crucial. These ephemeral fruiting bodies grow and disappear quickly, so it’s always a matter of being in the right place at the right time. Mushrooms need moisture, so they tend to be more abundant after rains. During long periods without rain, it’s still possible to locate mushrooms that are specialized to fog drips and sprinklers.

To find mushrooms, all you have to do is look around you. Some mushrooms have specialized relationships with certain trees. Oak trees have so many special relationships that they can be like an “X marks the spot” after a good rain.

Some mushrooms are decomposers, and decomposition happens all around us. If it decomposes, there’s a good chance that there is a specialized fungi for it. You can find a mushroom virtually anywhere if conditions are right.

Can I Touch It?

You can touch any mushroom! They need to be ingested to cause harm.

How Best to Observe

When you observe mushrooms in the wild, take a moment to appreciate their diverse ecosystems. Here are a few tips for a mindful experience:

Use a Field Guide: Bring a guidebook, even if you don’t know how to identify mushrooms yet, it will give insight into where/when to find certain mushrooms. Look for key features like cap shape, gills and habitat. A best choice for Southern Californians is the Field Guide to Mushrooms of Western North America (Davis, Sommer, and Menge). It uses a keying system that is unsurpassed.

Take Photos: Document your finds with photographs of the top and bottom, including the base. This allows you to study them later when they’ve disappeared.

Upload finds to iNaturalist: Upload your photos to the iNaturalist app for insight from experts and to potentially document your find. You never know when you might’ve found something uncommon, and the experts will appreciate the documentation.
­
Next time you venture into the woods, take a moment to look for mushrooms. Whether you’re admiring their beauty or pondering their role in the ecosystem, these incredible organisms are worth your attention. And remember, while the mushrooms above ground are enchanting, the hidden world of mycelium beneath is where the true magic lies. Happy hunting!

If you’re interested in learning more, consider joining a local mycology club; also FoGP is planning Mushroom Walks in early 2025, weather permitting! Stay tuned!

For More Information

~Bat Vardeh is the founder of Foraging and Mushroom Hunting Women of SoCal and a member of the Los Angeles Mycological Society.

Friends of Griffith Park continues to initiate and promote projects that will enhance the visitor experience and those that support the Park’s wildlife and habitat

GRIFFITH PARK MERRY-GO-ROUND
As strange as it sounds, the privately-owned historic 1926 Stillman carousel sits inside a building owned by the L.A. Department of Recreation and Parks (RAP). Due to co-owner Julio Gosdinski’s death at the age of 49 in 2020, his 50% ownership still rests in the hands of the probate court.

Even so, the beloved merry-go-round operated sporadically during the COVID-19 pandemic, until a very expensive mechanical repair shuttered this affordable, favorite attraction. Unfortunately, until there is a resolution in the court case, little can be done to address the mechanical problems and reopen the ride.

FoGP continues to see strong interest in keeping this rich piece of history alive in Griffith Park. To reiterate, FoGP is anxious to see RAP acquire ownership of the carousel and will help in this effort.

Parents of young children regularly reach out and ask us when it might reopen. Sadly, kids will miss another holiday season of riding this mighty four-abreast horse carousel. The ride was inspirational for Walt Disney, and has enthralled thousands of youngsters over the nearly nine decades it has resided in the Park. Julio’s smiling face and passion made it even more inviting in recent decades.

GRIFFITH PARK PONY RIDES
Another favorite and affordable Park attraction – the pony rides – was placed on hiatus in late 2022. RAP hired an outside consultant, PlaceWorks, to manage the controversy with the public about live animal rides. Public outreach for “Reimagining the Pony Rides Site” conducted by the consultant has ended, and their formal report was delivered to RAP Commissioners on September 16, 2024.

The report gives no answers. Instead, it exhibits loads of input collected from the public via various methods. The “statistically valid survey” is compelling and states that a fair representation of L.A.’s demographics indicate that 70% of the public favor pony rides being offered to children with only 16% opposed.

The report cites a variety of possible uses for the 3.5-acre venue, with or without pony rides being a part of the final choice. Seven case studies of activities within California, ranging from no-animal interaction to primarily animal interaction facilities, illustrate the possibilities for the site’s future. The case studies also explore business models, management structures, capital investment, and construction time for each option.

At the September Commission meeting, no deliberations occurred, although questions from L.A. Park Commission’s President Renata Simril were answered. One question was whether there was a “strategic plan” for Griffith Park, and the response was, “not at this time.” However, A Vision for Griffith Park which provides an important document to guide Griffith Park, was not part of the discussion.

It was made clear that a decision might be a combination of activities from the case models presented. No timeline was given for this important topic to return to the Commission for final decisions regarding the venue.

The complete report, as well as detailed information on the path of outreach along the way can be accessed online.

LOS ANGELES ZOO EXPANSION
Litigation filed jointly by Friends of Griffith Park and the Griffith J. Griffith Charitable Trust on September 13, 2023, has not yet been resolved. The deadline for the City Attorney to present the Administrative Record has been extended several times by the Court, due to its depth and considering the possibility of settlement.

The suit, based upon the California Environmental Quality Act (CEQA), targets the massive excavation of an unnatural 60-ft deep “man-made canyon,” an 18,000 sq. ft. visitor center on top of a high ridgeline, and the loss of native habitat containing rare and sensitive flora, along with 26 City-protected trees/shrubs.

ALCOHOL POLICY ADOPTED
FoGP remains concerned that in March of 2024, RAP expanded the opportunity for approved events to serve alcohol. In the adopted Revised Alcohol Policy, an “unlimited number of open area events” can be authorized by the RAP General Manager.

A second concern is that RAP expanded the currently-allowed beer and wine policy to include all liquor for these events.

We have suggested that Griffith Park’s “Wilderness Area,” which is delineated in the Historic-Cultural Monument documents, be precluded from potential “open area alcohol events” locations. FoGP has also reminded decision-makers that 800 acres burned in 2007, and an average of about a dozen reported fires per year are extinguished in Griffith Park. It has been shown repeatedly that alcohol is tied to carelessness and people falling asleep while smoking, contrary to the Park’s strict no smoking rules.

Loosening the Alcohol Policy is truly an environmental issue for Griffith Park with management’s extraordinary authority to permit alcohol in outdoor events. Currently, RAP struggles with budget reductions and insufficient staffing. We believe RAP is interested in having a standard policy throughout all its 450-plus properties and needs to raise revenue any way it can. However, standard policy does not fit the reality for Griffith Park or other regional parks in RAP’s holdings.

FERN DELL WROUGHT-IRON FENCE / PHASE 3
When FoGP completed the attractive, historically-accurate (1920s) pedestrian bridge in 2019, the rusty chain-linked fencing surrounding the bridge became a horrific eyesore in comparison. It was up to our organization to make improvements since stretched-thin City dollars were unavailable.

Through fund-matching with generous donors, especially nearby residents, FoGP was able to complete the first two sections during 2020 and 2021. Our goal now – to encircle the entire area from the north side of the new bridge to the south to create a large loop with two gates that are secured at night.

The contractor FoGP used for Phases 1 and 2 did superb work. This year, while committed to Phase 3, the final and longest stretch, we en- countered a series of “red tape” bumps – even though we had already secured funding for the project completion! Fortunately, persistence paid off and we were able to work out issues over the course of several months.

We hope all Park visitors will enjoy this new section along the 200-ft long pathway that connects lower and upper Fern Dell, east of the bridges. Now, instead of dilapidated chain-link fence, you’ll find a more attractive, friendlier wrought-iron fence. Matching funds from our close partner, the Griffith J. Griffith Charitable Trust, made this project possible.

ORIGINAL TILE ROOF RETURNS TO THE FERN DELL COMFORT STATION
Some may think a restroom could not possibly be considered a historic feature, however; Fern Dell’s 1926-era “comfort station” is something everyone can embrace!

Constructed in the Spanish Colonial style, this structure boasted period-defining details that have been lost over the decades. Ironically, shortly after the Park’s designation as a Historic-Cultural Monument in 2009, the terracotta tiled roof was replaced with asphalt shingles while our attention was elsewhere.

With approvals by the L.A.’s Department of Recreation and Parks, FoGP has been allowed to restore the roof back to its historic look. Our chosen contractor, Roof Repair Specialists, did a fantastic job. We hope you agree!

Although the vertical, lathed wood spindles were another striking and distinct detail of the original comfort station, FoGP was not permitted to incorporate them at this time. Eventually, we hope to reincorporate them, at least, in the openings above the doors.

MEASURE W PROJECT / FERN DELL
Our largest potential project of all involves flowing water in Fern Dell. Engineering consultant Craftwater, Inc., continues the Feasibility Study for the Fern Dell Rehabilitation and Stormwater Capture Project. The one-year study grant was awarded through the County’s Safe, Clean Water Program.

Recently FoGP learned that the County will postpone the annual “call for projects.” As a result, this Feasibility Study Phase will continue for another year, but has been elevated to a higher level of design, 30% rather than 10%. Additional program funding of roughly $40,000 will allow Craftwater to further develop conceptual and technical scopes. Even though this project will be delayed a year, we remain optimistic it will be elevated to full Design Phase.

Our vision for this project – to rehabilitate Fern Dell and improve the water quality that’s being discharged from the area and eventually flows into Ballona Creek. Stormwater capture and diversion from the existing City storm drain system, along with water storage and reuse are high priority goals.

Recirculation of stored water to the upper Fern Dell streambed, most often bone dry, is another goal that will benefit visitors’ experience, as well as tree and habitat health.

There are many possibilities for Fern Dell: an enhanced parking lot with a permeable surface, appropriate landscaping, historic trail restoration, and the gift of a renewed irrigation system.

~Gerry Hans, FoGP president

More important than breaking records, we had the opportunity to analyze data on a species-by-species basis to shed light on territory re-use, non-breeding pairs, nest takeovers, nest switches (takeovers by other species), and more. The goal of the study is to understand the year-to-year trends and to discover the forces at work involving our local raptors in the Los Angeles area. Apex predators play an important role in the ecosystem, especially in our complex urban setting where human influences can alter balances. What better place than Los Angeles to study urban raptors?

In late September, the LA Raptor Study 2024 Final Report was presented to a well-attended audience via Zoom. The Study represents the only comprehensive dataset of an entire breeding raptor community within the urban core of Los Angeles, per Dr. Dan Cooper (Cooper Ecological Monitoring, Inc.), who directed the launch of the Study in 2017.

Nurit Katz, the Study’s Outreach Coordinator, has elevated communication and education capabilities with our volunteers and the public since 2022. Nurit was a raptor study volunteer, monitoring nests prior to her taking on her current role, and she is also employed as UCLA’s Chief Sustainability Officer.

The study has become a recognized model for “community science” within Los Angeles, with clear scientific goals and plethora of data being collected by community scientist volunteers who undergo training on scientific methods.

Apply to Volunteer in 2025

Details for participating in the study are discussed on FoGP’s “Raptor Study & Resources” webpage where you can also find a link to a Volunteer Application. In January, registered volunteers are invited to a virtual training session and a field training workshop held in early February. Nest assignments are then made. Dan, Nurit, and myself also help orient new volunteers at their assigned nest sites.

Since Cooper’s Hawks are late-nesters and present special challenges in tracking, a second virtual session and field training are offered specifically for this species in April. Cooper’s Hawk nest assignments are made for ambitious, willing volunteers, and nearly all volunteers want one!

Study Result Highlights in 2024

650 raptor territories were rechecked or discovered across the study area, representing 239 Cooper’s territories (vs. 222 in 2023), 215 Red-tailed Hawk territories (vs. 184 in 2023), 57 Red-shouldered Hawk territories (vs. 55 in 2023), 105 Great Horned Owl territories (vs. 84 in 2023), as well as a handful of territories of American Kestrel, Peregrine Falcon, Barn Owl and Western Screech-owl.

While not all of these territories were found to be active in 2024, the numbers continue to closely reflect the maximum number of territories in the study area, thanks to increased effort and our growing knowledge of local species ecology. The study puts focus on the territories of breeding pairs which, for the most part, mate for life, but don’t necessarily use the same nests from year to year.

Fledge Rates

We define Fledge Rate results as fledged nests for territories tracked; the fledge rate of active nests, on the other hand, is extremely high, with few failures once birds start incubating. Convergence of the Fledge Rate this year for the three focal hawk species is interesting and unexpected, considering they were quite different in the previous few years:

• Red-tailed Hawk: 127 nests fledged from 169 active territories (75%). This fledging rate saw a return to average after the higher rates of 2020 and 2021 and lower rates in 2022 and 2023.

• Cooper’s Hawk: 88 nests fledged from 113 active territories (78%). This rate of success was slightly below the average across the past five years, up from the last two years.

• Red-shouldered Hawk: 27 nests fledged from 36 active territories (75%). This proportion is higher than the prior two years and the 5-year average, but lower than in 2020.

• Great Horned Owl: The analysis for this species changed this year, because we added new territories based upon more than only active nests found, ­such as pairs that duet. We found that 40 nests fledged from 58 territories, but any comparison to previous years would be invalid.

Territory Re-occupancy

Red-tailed Hawks kept their amazing and steady territory re-occupancy rate of 80%. The other two hawk species’ re-occupancy rates have been more variable over the years of study. Red-shouldered Hawks were around 75% in 2024. The lowest rates were for Cooper’s Hawks at roughly 65%, which is well above the previous two-year 50% average territory re-occupancy rate. Only these hawk species were included in this analysis. There are plans to dig deeper into the data to explore nest structure re-use, in addition to focusing on territory re-use.

Nest Productivity

While there was a significant increase across all four major species in the total number of fledged young, nest productivity rate is measured as the mean number of chicks hatched from successful active nests (with failed/abandoned nests excluded). Interestingly, this metric peaked in 2019 across our four species. There is no explanation. It is possible that two very wet winters was not enough to overcome the previous drought trend in place, and we continue to explore possible correlations with seasonal weather.

Over the study period (2017-2024), mean nest productivity number (chicks per nest) varied in a fairly tight range of 1.8 for Red-shouldered Hawks to a high of 2.5 for Cooper’s Hawks.

Our Special Species

There is limited data from the study on the rarer local raptor species, including American Kestrel, Peregrine Falcon and Western Screech-owl.

The study closely tracks one peregrine pair in Griffith Park. Two other peregrine nest locations were confirmed on top of high buildings this year where juvenile rescues took place. Several other tall structures are also suspected host sites for nesting, but collecting data is difficult due to building management challenges. We plan to put more effort to following these peregrines in coming years.

Cavity-nesting American Kestrels also prove challenging, but one residential-area nest in Boyle Heights was monitored and another territory in Sepulveda Basin was confirmed with four post-fledged juveniles observed.

Work done by students under the UCLA Institute of Environment and Sustainability Senior Practicum, with FoGP as their client, addressed breeding owl species including Barn Owls and Western Screech-owls. Students successfully contributed with nocturnal field surveys and predictive distribution modeling. More detail is available on FoGP’s raptor webpage.

Nest Disturbance and Tree Trimming

A new focus of the study involves documenting nest disturbances such as nests lost to wind, tree-trimming or trees being chopped down. It is illegal to trim out nests even when it is done between nesting seasons. It is also illegal to disturb active nests in any manner which may adversely affect reproductive success. We have observed that the destruction of nests is often unintentional on the part of residents.

In 2024, to address the significant trimming issues observed, we created signs to place on accessible nest trees. The signs include information about applicable laws protecting nests. Template letters were also created to inform homeowners and area residents of nests on their properties. These measures represent a proactive educational approach to prevent loss of nests.

Another disturbance involves loss of raptors through secondary poisoning by rodenticides. We hope that the California bans on two classes of anticoagulants will alleviate the senseless death of raptors that ironically serve a vital role in rodent control. FoGP and many other organizations have fought hard for these legislative actions; we’re finally nearing the goal line.

The Raptor Study family of participants celebrated a fantastic year of accomplishments at the Volunteer Appreciation Dinner held in Griffith Park this fall. FoGP thanks our volunteers, our talented science team, and the public agencies that provided access and services, along with L.A. residents who provided so many great tips! Let’s keep up the momentum!

~ Gerry Hans
photo: Gerry Hans

Hummingbirds are residents of Griffith Park and can be seen flying in many areas. Hummingbirds are among the smallest birds found in our world and have great acrobatic skills, hovering in midair and even flying backwards.

Because of their small size, hummingbirds burn calories very quickly and require constant feeding to ensure they have energy for their active lifestyle. A hummingbird’s diet consists of protein provided by insects and carbohydrates provided by flower nectar. Hummingbirds are very selective of the flowers they visit and many plants have adapted their flowers to cater to the hummingbirds. Hummingbirds and plants engage in a mutualistic relationship, evolved over time, in which the flowers get pollination services and the hummingbird gets a valuable meal.

The flowers that are most attractive to hummingbirds have colors of red, orange, and yellow. Hummingbirds do not use smell to discern flower preferences, but can detect dangerous insects in order to avoid them by sensing their chemicals. Because hummingbirds can hover in midair, their preferred flowers will lack a landing platform and are suspended in the air away from the plant to ensure a clear line of sight by the bird.

One of the best ways for people to help hummingbirds is to incorporate plants in their garden space with flowers that specifically cater to the birds. Plastic or glass nectar feeders are not recommended because they can easily transfer infections and pathogens from one hummingbird to another.

If you wish to view hummingbirds while hiking, all you need to do is sit in close proximity to a plant that is blooming and avoid making sudden and quick movements. ­In time, hummingbirds will arrive to drink from the flowers – and you will have a front row seat.

­~Jorge Ochoa, FoGP Advisory Board Member

Ochoa is an associate professor of horticulture at Long Beach City College.
He often leads FoGP walks through Griffith Park, and occasionally
lectures on the fauna and flora found throughout the Park.­

Read or download the Winter/Spring 2024-25 edition of the Griffith Reporter PDF.

DOWNLOAD PDF

Mike Eberts’ book Griffith Park: A Centennial History opens with a 1935 map of the Park, created by the Works Progress Administration (WPA). Look closely — in the northeast quadrant is a small field that features a small biplane, hanger and runway referenced as the National Guard Airport.

An airfield? In Griffith Park? My interest is piqued!

This was my first realization that an airfield existed, at least briefly in this part of Griffith Park which has seen many realignments over the decades. Unfortunately, every single structure related to this airfield is long gone — swept away by time, by freeways and by the reconfiguration of the Park. It’s all vanished into thin air.

According to Eberts, Col. Griffith’s son Van had been bitten by the lure of the wide open skies and the burgeoning aviation industry in his youth, becoming “an accomplished glider pilot and balloonist.” Eventually Van veered toward the business side and in 1911, founded a magazine called Aviation which lasted a year.

Around this time, Van also became involved in the creation of a flying field on the Griffith Reservation — a property that remained under ownership of the Griffith family when the original land grant was gifted to the City in 1896. This particular area was perfectly suited to an airfield since it consisted of broad, flat land, unlike the steep, deep canyons of Griffith Park.

The newly constructed Griffith Park Aerodrome catered to early aviation pioneers like Glenn L. Martin who in 1912 established the Glenn L. Martin Co., and operated out of this location until 1916 when he left for the greener pastures of New Jersey. Martin’s departure from Los Angeles, left the airfield without sufficient resources and the field quickly fell into disrepair. In 1921, The City of Los Angeles purchased the Griffith Reservation property, making it an official part of Griffith Park. During this period several failed attempts were made to revive the airfield, and in 1924 the property was leased to the California National Guard, and used to train military pilots.

In 1929, the airfield lease was extended for an additional five years, but by now things were beginning to radically change. The land was now part of Griffith Park and Van Griffith was becoming increasingly disillusioned with the National Guard occupying this space. As a Park commissioner, Van had voted against reauthorizing the lease, although he was overruled by other committee members. By the early 1930s, he had became more vocal, commenting, “The temporary use of a part of Griffith Park granted to the California National Guard should be considered TEMPORARY in every sense of the word…”

At the same time, another situation was emerging — the National Guard airfield was interfering with approaches to Grand Central Air Terminal — a small commercial airport located in nearby Glendale. Both fields were using the same airspace and the possibility of mid-air collisions were increasing.

By 1939, the L.A. City Planning Division concluded that the National Guard field violated the original land grant terms, the airport was shuttered, and the National Guard’s 40th Air Corps Division was moved elsewhere. By 1959, the Glendale airport was also shuttered, and flights were moved to the larger Burbank Airport facility.

After WWII, the National Guard field became the site of Rodger Young Village, housing returning vets and families, due to a city-wide housing shortage. The Village closed in the mid-1950s and beginning in 1956, construction of the I-5 freeway consumed a large portion of the area. This was followed by construction of the 134 freeway in 1971 which consumed even more of the former National Guard field. The remainder of the area is now occupied by a portion of the LA Zoo parking lot, the Griffith Park Ferraro Soccer Fields, and the Griffith Park dog park, all sandwiched between two freeways, and the L.A. River.

Little remains of the fascinating aviation history in the Park

On the crest of the tall peak adjacent the I-5, a revolving beacon once warned pilots to steer clear of the steep hills and deep canyons of Griffith Park. All is completely gone. The peak — Beacon Hill as it’s called — still exists and the trail up and around is now used by hikers who may not know they’re walking on the last remnants of the storied aviation history in Griffith Park.

~­Kathryn Louyse, FoGP Board Member

The year is 1775. In October, forty soldiers and 240 civilians under the command of Captain Juan Bautista de Anza set out from the presidio at Tubac, AZ to colonize present-day San Jose. In January 1776, they pass through the future pueblo of Los Angeles and camp along the river at a place called El Portezuelo. Later, one soldier, Corporal Jose Vicente Feliz, will receive a land grant that includes El Portezuelo. Eventually it will become known as Rancho Los Feliz and ultimately, Griffith Park.

Fast forward to 2012. With a technical assistance grant from the National Park Service Rivers, Trails & Conservation Assistance (NPS-RTCA) program, Friends of Griffith Park has embarked on a project to improve Griffith Park’s Anza Trail. We’re excited to be serving as Project Cooperator for a primary planning team that includes the Los Angeles Department of Recreation and Parks and NPS-RTCA.

The outcome will be a link in a well-defined Juan Bautista de Anza National Historic Trail stretching from Nogales, AZ to the San Francisco Bay. Along the trail, the National Park Service envisions that visitors will “experience landscapes similar to those the expedition saw; learn the stories of the expedition, its members, and descendants… and appreciate the extent of the accomplishments of Juan Bautista de Anza and his colonizers.”

Part of President Obama’s America’s Great Outdoors Initiative

Elevating prospects for success is the project’s recent mention in President Obama’s “America’s Great Outdoors” (AGO) Fifty-State Report. The report highlights two projects in every state as local grassroots conservation efforts of significant value. In California, one of them is trail improvements along the Los Angeles River including Griffith Park and the Anza Trail. This inclusion helps position the project as a priority endeavor for the State and the U.S. Department of the Interior.

Current trail conditions, challenges and opportunities

Horseback riders, hikers and runners routinely enjoy Griffith Park’s segment of the Anza Trail – a distance of approximately 4 miles. It can be accessed at the Park’s northwest entrance, opposite the Equestrian Center or at the southeast terminus near the Pony/Train Ride concession at the Park’s Los Feliz entrance. In some places it passes through remnants of oak woodland communities and is shaded by heritage oaks and ancient sycamores. Elsewhere it skirts picnic grounds and the Wilson-Harding Golf Course offering views of the Park’s foothills. Be forewarned that some sections of the trail are less than ideal and that problems with upkeep and freeway noise will affect enjoyment.

Friends of Griffith Park is seeking to improve the overall trail experience. Beyond resolving maintenance issues and making necessary repairs, potential improvements may include adding interpretative signage to promote the trail’s educational value, creating signage to call attention to its heritage trees and plants, improving the landscape, adding noise mitigation measures and promoting connectivity to other Anza Trail units. We are at the beginning stage of the planning process, but if we do our work well, the Anza Trail will one day become a rewarding experience in the discovery and enjoyment of Griffith Park.

Looking at a Southern California Automobile Club map of the Los Angeles Freeway system from a few years back, it’s easy to see how freeways have affected the Los Angeles community, and not in a good way. Granted – these roads have made our commute faster – or have they? Getting from the valley to downtown has, for many, become a traffic nightmare so drivers looking for alternative routes, sometimes race through Griffith Park. With a fair number of commuters using these Park roadways, officials have been forced to close roads which – while angering some – has had a beneficial effect. Vehicle-caused wildlife deaths have been reduced, and Park users are now able to safely recreate.

But let’s step back for a moment to a much earlier time
­
In 1896, when Col. Griffith donated land for what was to become Griffith Park, the Los Angeles population hovered at around 75,000. The original gift consisted of 3,051 acres of parkland, and was situated approximately 5 miles north of downtown, a fairly long journey by buggy or horseback. While many officials scoffed at the notion that this parcel would eventually become the shining gem of the expanding city, Griffith’s vision of the future was spectacularly prescient.

But there was one huge flaw – the massive traffic congestion we’ve come to associate with living in the city. Very quickly, as the city grew, L.A. came knocking at the borders of Griffith Park. By 1920, according to one L.A. census, the population had grown to 500,000 and by 1940 the population again swelled to several million. Griffith’s gift became a necessary respite from the craziness of city living although it was becoming clear that area roadways were inadequate for traffic. Something needed to be done.

Enter the state

Beginning in the mid-1930s California recognized the rapid growth of communities throughout the state, especially in-and-around Los Angeles. Wartime manufacturing plants had created a need for housing – and roadways – which was compounded once wartime veterans returned to the area. Ultimately the Golden State Freeway (I-5) was conceived – a route that would tie the northern portion of the state to the southern point, and supposedly alleviate some of the growing pains in Los Angeles.

As work progressed well into the 1950s, the new roadway arrived at the northernmost edge of Griffith Park where it proceeded to split the parkland into two sides (the L.A. River also acted as a barrier). Slicing the Park created huge problems as area residents including the Los Feliz Improvement Association, the L.A. Parks Commission, L.A. Mayor Norris Poulson, and Griffith’s son Van (Griffith J. Griffith had died in July, 1919) were vehemently opposed. Earlier, Mayor Poulson had proposed an alternative route to the east of the river – through Glendale. According to Paul Haddad’s book, Freewaytopia, Poulson referred to the alternative route as “dumps, cow pastures, and vacant land” which would be more appropriate to freeway construction. Mike Eberts’ Griffith Park: A Centennial History also discusses the standoff: Recreation and Parks General Manager, George Hjelte had voiced concerns about the route, albeit late in the game. L.A. Councilman Ernest E. Debs then pushed back against his objections stating Hjelte was for the project before he was against it. Hjelte shot back, suggesting the full scope of the project had not been forthcoming at the time he voiced approval in 1947.

In the end, 200 acres of prime Parkland were destroyed to construct the freeway through the park – land that at one time, housed baseball diamonds, a pony track, model airplane runway, miniature railroad, archery range and more, according to Freewaytopia. Another wrench was tossed into the mix, courtesy of L.A. City Attorney Roger Arneberg who voiced concerns about a potential lawsuit from Van Griffith* which might have brought construction to a halt. Arneberg’s concerns were alleviated when Griffith filed suit against the state. Unfortunately for Griffith, Superior Court Judge A. Curtis Smith concluded the state trumps all (including Parklands). However, the state of California did pick up costs for shifting some of the recreational facilities to other areas, adding further encroachment into the Park.

Griffith Park was again trimmed with construction of the 134 freeway which connected the 101 freeway to Pasadena. This portion of the Ventura Freeway clipped the upper part of Griffith Park, separating the space occupied by the Ferraro Soccer Fields from the area where the L.A. Zoo and Autry Museum are situated. Again, this state-sponsored construction was created in order to alleviate traffic flowing west. Unfortunately it’s done little to make life better for most drivers.

Today, Griffith Park is a fragmented Park with snippets of land detached from the Mother Plot. The area along Riverside Drive adjacent to Los Feliz Boulevard constitutes one such snippet. And there are others – Bette Davis Park and the Equestrian Center on the Burbank side of the Park, Pollywog Park, the Maintenance Yard and a small 9-hole golf course – both in Atwater Village.

Looking toward the future, we’re facing more crossroads

No longer are Angelenos able to jump on a freeway and travel to downtown in 15 minutes or less – an argument used in the ongoing discussion for the Golden State Freeway construction. It’s time to recognize these roadways act as concrete barriers to wildlife making crossings from Griffith Park into other areas extremely unsafe. Now that the Annenberg Wildlife Crossing is well underway (construction is slated to be completed in 2025), it’s time to consider more crossing bridges, or tunnels leading from the easternmost edge of the Santa Monica Mountains – which is Griffith Park – to other green spaces like the Verdugo Mountains and the Angeles National Forest, currently blocked by freeways and residential zones.

*Van Griffith’s lawsuit against California hinged on the original gift language which stipulated that the Parkland would revert to the family if Griffith Park was used for anything other than recreation­.

~Kathryn Louyse, FoGP Board Member

California has more horse-flesh and more horse people than any place in the country outside of Kentucky… And the holy ground, the mystic Mecca, the sanctified gathering place for the initiate is out Griffith Park way, north of Los Feliz Blvd., along the banks of that torrential stream known as the Los Angeles River. The temples of the cult are the riding academies. Follow the river from Los Feliz north and west as it curves around Griffith Park to Warner Bros. studio. The stables are thick as ticks and within rifle range of the river. The geographical center of this horsy holiness is Bette Davis’ home, situated where the river bends to the west beyond the Grand Central airport. Here the horse is supreme. Even the homes of the district are known as Riverside ranchos. And every one of them has a stable for a horse or two just as surely as a ship has a rudder.

When you think of the National Register of Historic Places, you usually think of significant buildings and great architecture. Think again! There is a new unique structure on the National Register, an equestrian bridge, specifically, the Mariposa Street Bridge. This mini Golden Gate Bridge is right on the northern edge of Griffith Park.

The Mariposa Street Bridge, built in 1939 by the Los Angeles County Flood Control District, links the Equestrian Center and Burbank residential area to Griffith Park. Back in the day, horses simply walked across the shallow Los Angeles River to reach the trails in the Park, but after disastrous floods in the 1930s, the US Army Corps of Engineers, charged with reducing the risk of flooding, channelized the river in concrete. With no access to the miles of trails in Griffith Park, a group of local equestrians formed a committee to request an equestrian-pedestrian bridge be built.

In 1938, the Burbank City Council voted to ask the Los Angeles County Board of Supervisors and the Army Corps of Engineers to “construct a crossing which could be used by horsemen and pedestrians to gain entrance to Griffith Park.” Proponents read a letter of ­support from The Singing Cowboy himself, Gene Autry, and submitted a petition with thousands of names. The Board of Supervisors then instructed C.H. Howell, Chief Engineer of the County Flood Control District, to plan for a $13,000 steel suspension bridge.

The Mariposa Street Bridge links the Riverbottom, the special commercial-equestrian area that includes the cities of Burbank (Burbank Rancho), Glendale, and the Los Angeles Equestrian Center, to Griffith Park. The Riverbottom has long provided equestrian support services like stables, feed stores, horse rentals, restaurants, and riding academies. The popular bridge provides access to Griffith Park’s 53 miles of bridle trails without having to risk life and limb on streets full of cars.

The new bridge was soon completed and opened to fanfare in a dedication event on March 18, 1939. Several thousand people attended the ceremony led by Roger Jessup, Chairman of the Board of Supervisors, when the bridge was presented to “outdoor-minded citizens of Los Angeles, Glendale and Burbank.” Paula Palmer and Helen Griffith, the granddaughter of Griffith J. Griffith who donated the land for Griffith Park, were among the first riders to cross.

Western Movies and Television Shows

The Mariposa Street Bridge has played an essential role in the making of Western-genre movies and television shows, which were commonly shot on nearby movie ranches, movie studios, and in Griffith Park – the most popular place to film in Los Angeles County. The bridge provided the connection between the Park, the Riverbottom, and ranches in the San Fernando Valley. The significance of this area for filming dates to 1911 when the first studio in Hollywood, the Nestor Film Company, was established. Nestor Film Company utilized the Providencia Ranch as its principal location for filming Westerns. This later became Lasky Studios, and is now Forest Lawn Memorial Park.

According to Hollywood historian Marc Wanamaker in Images of America: San Fernando Valley, “From then on, the Valley became Hollywood’s backlot.” There were numerous Westerns filmed in Griffith Park from the 1930s through the 1960s. Famed Western actor John Wayne “grew up across the river from Griffith Park in Glendale,” and could often be found filming in Griffith Park beginning in 1933.

The bridge has long been a central component of the local equestrian ecosystem. In a June 2, 1940 article, the Los Angeles Times announced: California has more horse-flesh and more horse people than any place in the country outside of Kentucky… And the holy ground, the mystic Mecca, the sanctified gathering place for the initiate is out Griffith Park way, north of Los Feliz Blvd., along the banks of that torrential stream known as the Los Angeles River. The temples of the cult are the riding academies. Follow the river from Los Feliz north and west as it curves around Griffith Park to Warner Bros. studio. The stables are thick as ticks and within rifle range of the river. The geographical center of this horsy holiness is Bette Davis’ home, situated where the river bends to the west beyond the Grand Central airport. Here the horse is supreme. Even the homes of the district are known as Riverside ranchos. And every one of them has a stable for a horse or two just as surely as a ship has a rudder.

Mike Eberts declared in Griffith Park: A Centennial History that by the 1920s, Griffith Park had become “a favored spot for equestrians,” and “spurred the development of equestrian land uses in surrounding areas” like the Riverbottom. In 1954, patronage of the Griffith Park bridle paths was 625,520.

After years of controversy, in 1955-1957, the I-5 Freeway was constructed in Griffith Park, alongside the channelized river. Even with that barrier in place, Griffith Park continues to be of central importance to neighboring equestrian communities, providing invaluable space for horses to exercise.

In Griffith Park’s application for Historic-Cultural Monument status, bridle trails are identified as one of the primary character-defining features of Griffith Park: “Throughout the wilderness, hiking and equestrian activity are the predominant activities.” Griffith Park was designated as HCM No. 942 in 2009.

The bridge is an essential, historic linkage between the two sides of the river. Friends of Griffith Park was delighted to submit a letter of support for the National Register nomination. Congratulations to the equestrian community for initiating the National Register of Historic Places designation for the Mariposa Street Bridge!

~Marian Dodge, FoGP Board Member

photos: top: Mariposa St. Bridge from north river bank, view southeast, circa 1960s (Burbank Public Library)
inset photo: Equestrian Bridge opens to Griffith Park Trails newspaper photo. Helen Griffith is on the right